OVERTURE PETG Filament 1.75mm, 3D Printer Filament, 1kg Filament (2.2lbs), Dimensional Accuracy 99% Probability +/- 0.03 mm, Fit Most FDM Printer (Black (1-Pack))

The roll i received had a lot of moister in it. I can’t print anything with it and everything is brittle. I’m sure it’s just the roll i received. But it sucks i can’t even use it. I thought it was my printer for a month replacing things that would cause it. Then finally did my research and figured out it was the plastic. It was like this ever since i took it out of the sealed plastic. Not blaming the company but just beware there is a chance it can happen.

Good petg for the price. It is not too picky on temperature, it prints fine anywhere from 245-255 on my ender 3 v2. It doesn’t bridge very well but that is to be expected for petg, if you want to bridge i recommend printing at 245 and turning on bridging settings in cura which makes bridges possible although pretty ugly. Supports work better than bridging, but can be hard to remove because petg sticks to itself so well.

Here are my settings for ender 3 v2:
micro swiss all-metal hotend / original extruder / original bowden tube
bltouch leveling probe + yellow springs
nozzle 0.4mm 250c
bed plain glass + gluestick, 85c
first layer speed 10
speed after first layer 30
first layer height: 0.28
layer height after first layer: 0.2
fan: none unless you are trying to bridge, if so use bridge detection to turn fan 100% only for the bridge
retraction 3mm @ 30

i find that the biggest struggle with petg is just getting the first layer to stick and look good. Once you get past the first layer it is usually smooth sailing. If you have problems with the first layer, first of all dry your filament even if it is brand new. It is an easy way to eliminate frustrations. Also go ahead and calibrate your extruder steps and measure your filament diameter and put that into your slicer, again these are easy steps that ensure you will not be fighting under/over extrusion while you are trying to get everything else figured out. Next use glue stick on plain glass and let the glue stick dry. You want the glass to look dull, not shiny, but it also shouldn’t feel sticky to the touch. This combo works great for me, it adheres well but not too well and the prints pop themselves off when they cool. Lots of people like hairspray too but gluestick works fine for me and is less messy. Finally the #1 most important thing is to adjust your z offset and first layer height. You cannot mush the filament onto the bed like pla, it needs to fall out of the nozzle and gently lay down onto the bed. Before doing anything with your z-offset i recommend turning your first layer height up to .28 or .3. The reason is that this sets your nozzle higher and automatically adjusts the flow rate to match. If you just start bumping your z-offset higher and higher, you will be under-extruding by a lot which can cause its own problems. Once you set your first-layer height to .28, then start printing a test print and live-adjust your z until the lines lay down and stick to the bed, and are neither gooping up onto the nozzle, nor being hit by the nozzle and pulled off the bed. This is tricky because the sweet spot here is tiny. Like within one or 2 micro-adjustments on the z, either side of that you will have issues. But once you hit the sweet spot on the z you are golden. Then print some bed leveling test prints and adjust your first layer extrusion multiplier or line width if needed so your lines are touching. I recommend always using the bed level print that is circles when starting off, not squares. The sharp corners on the squares are super unforgiving and will pop off instantly if your settings aren’t right. It is easier to use a bed leveling print with circles to dial your settings in without frustrating yourself and needing to restart the print a hundred times.
When printing things over 2′ tall i recommend using a wide brim because originally i was using skirt and i have had taller prints pop off the bed right as they are nearly finished, i think the reason is due to the lower part of the print cooling off. A brim is cheap insurance against your whole print being ruined at the last moment, and is easy to remove and leaves little trace that it was ever there.

I like everything about this product, 242 hotend, 72 bed, <50mm/s, a dap of glue stick, doesn’t jam, spooled on tightly and perfect. Comes in a nice sealed metallic bag, cardboard holder. (sone of the card board holders are wider than normal, so be advised when placing in eryone shell type dryers)

I have had good luck with overture petg but both times i have used the rock version the print looks so much smoother because the pattern almost makes print lines disappear. When printed nice and slow and only using .2 layer the parts come out looking almost injection molded.

The downside this one strings more than others for some reason so get those setting dialed in.

Bed adhesion on my pei bed is perfect without any adhesive. Wants higher flow on initial layer. I generally print .2 layer height with .45 walls and i get very solid, very aesthetic prints

I have used many rolls of various colors of overture petg and pla in my prusa mk3 with great success. Never any adhesion issues on first layer, and prints consistently come out great.

My son recently got a 3d printer so i bought him this to use with it. He has made several things and is very happy with this product.

Just all around great petg. I’ve tried sunlu which was brittle and i’ve tried hatchbox which was stringy. I keep comming back to overture!

Great choice for anyone new or experienced with 3d printing. Quality rolls. Would buy again and again and again!

No surprises here. This overture filament provides consistent results with predictable build plate adhesion (pei).

I love overture’s filaments, and this one is no different. It produces a great quality print, and no jams because of the quality of this filament. I will however say, nothing against this product at all… But i do miss getting the adhesive build surface stickers that overture included in some of the prior purchases i made… But that won’t stop me from buying more… Which i am doing today! 🙂

I feel thats its a very nice filament, but is so flexible/ bendy. I’ve made a couple prints using this filament and they turned out okay and how they were somewhat intended to look. However, compared to other filament i’ve used, it tends to be very very bendy, and stringy. When doing long prints i’ve had it mess up and instead of extruding just gets stuck inside. Other than that, i deal with a lot of tangles when i used this filament, i always have to unwind, then rewind it to make sure it doesn’t mess up the print. It’s a nice filament for quality, but getting it there in the first place is a different story.

As the title says, this is great filament but the cardboard spools it comes on now suck. I have a vacuum sealer that i use to store my filament when not in use to keep it nice and dry. Traditional plastic spools work great with tbis as they deflect some naturally and don’t deform when vacuumed sealed. The cardboard spools overture uses now gets mashed and bent anytime i vacuum seal it. I wish they’d go back to the plastic or something a little more robust. Docking one star for this.

I loved everything about this petg except the color. The yellow is much closer to an orange than a true yellow.

I wish i could find an fdm filament that is actually clear and colorless. This is slightly purple, pla is slightly yellow, and abs is slightly green. Make sure you adjust print head and bed temperatures to manufacturer’s recommendations, this is hotter than slicer and printer default settings. Once you get the bed hot enough (i used 85c), adhesion problems diminish. Still need brim and a little gluestick for small models.

Prints well for me at 240c bed 85c.
Glass bed with hair spray.
The spool i received was plastic not cardboard. The spool warped in my filament dryer at 70c, the filament did not melt. I had to respool the filament to an empty spool. So i gave 4 stars rather than 5.

Definitely good stuff!
Now its pretty much well known that overture makes some good filaments.
Of that there is no doubt!!!!!!!!!!
Now lately ive been doing an experiment as i’ve read a lot of reviews mostly pro,
but a few also that are uh cons, balanced out with my own experiences etc.
Now petg is fantastic stuff and is likely the hardest material you can run on an average or low temp head!.
Ok my machine is largely a stock ender 3max.
But i use a ‘separate dolly’ w rollers to feed my filament…
And i am running a nickle plated copper 04. Nozzle as both items made for smoother prints.
Plus i believe the roller dolly sped up my processing times somewhat sic.
My interest in petg was peaked when i made a small bowl from it.
And after doing my darn est my break it with a claw hammer.
I failed totally!…..
Yes that’s right as with a ‘steel hammer’ i failed to break a piece of plastic so clearly this petg is a material that has sadly been over looked!!!.
Then i made a small part w the overture brand and after showing it to my girlfriend she said:
‘oh wow i didn’t know you could do investment castings w that new machine!…

Thats right and overture plastic is really that good!…..

Now i do admit that -regardless- of brand this petg does take some fine tuning.
My advise is start your project/workpiece a bit on the hot side and run a bit fast but then cool every thing down
that really helps to avoid heat cracks which is the ‘cry of doom’ with this stuff regardless of brand.

I preheat nozzel 259 and bed at 95.
My print speeds are 45 for small pieces and 50 for large items
see in cura i set first layer at 255 and bed at 90.
Then i switch it to nozzel 243/ bed70 and run it out 45 speed and fan20 and most times it does good.
See i run it a bit hot to get the first layer or raft to stick better.
But if you run a much hotter bed then say 70-75 you really risk heat curl which is super bad!.
For bed adhesion if i print off aluminum foil i use elmers craft bond glue stick.
If i print off paper/ linen, or cotton resume paper i spray it down w aquanet w good results.
For the tough jobs i use painters tape, or packing tape ‘sticky side’ up as it holds good and doesnt mar the bottom too bad.

To finish:
dont listen to the ‘doubters’ or the naysayers if nothing is wrong w your machine you can print petg
but you’ll have to work w it a tad till you get the sweet spot.
On most machines that is say nozzle 238-243, bed 75-90,and no fan or 10 to 20.
The magic spot is somewhere in between.

My work shows me that overture petg is among the ‘very best’ and the 2 roll sale is unbeatable.
It also is the only petg i ever ran without the feared ‘heat crack’ also.
Remember if you need filament or print supplies an live in a small town that amazon is your friend!.

Top rated!
Buy with confidence…
Indianaed…

Prints wonderfully as overture always does. The sparkle blue is the best looking filament i’ve seen. I really wish petg more often received the same attention to aesthetics that pla gets. I only print in petg because i like prints that don’t melt or snap if you look at them wrong. Only thing holding me back from five stars are some issues with spooling, if i didn’t have a smart runout sensor i would have lost a big print.

Great filament. Just make sure you dry it for a couple of days in a filament dryer before using. Otherwise, you’ll end up with a stringy mess.

Managed to print a working void switch in this stuff. Needed to dry it first. Too much moisture even right out of the bag. Not a big deal at this price point. Any other issues i have with it can probably be fixed with some tuning of the print settings.