Pitti Immagine Uomo 102: the latest fashion trends
Those who have responded to his call since June 1972 have done so knowing they are participating in an unmissable event, on pain of missing the “Zeitgeist” (spirit of the times). Pitti, a scene of premieres and previews, a laboratory of trends, a test bed for what is about to be worn and a forum for ideas; 682 exhibiting companies, in this latest edition has doubled the figures of the last edition. The joint exhibition of men’s and women’s collections , the elimination of gender boundaries; the commitment to sustainabilitywhich overcomes the wave of greenwashing and the visibility to new voices of design, are now pioneering practices for this appointment. Synonymous with lifestyle, a way of life that goes beyond fashion; thanks also to the suggestive location that is an integral part of its expression, in a program that extends to the whole city and creates a symbiosis between fashion, art and culture.
Guest designer, special project e special guest
Palazzo Medici Riccardi, which houses the Chapel of the Magi with the frescoes by Gozzoli, contributed to the splendor of Pitti Immagine Uomo 102 , hosting the Spring / Summer 2022 fashion show-event in its Renaissance courtyardsby Grace Wales Bonner, the Anglo-Jamaican designer. A rich range of handcrafted products used throughout the collection, from Indian macrame and hand-dyed fabrics made in Burkina Faso to baroque pearls, rock crystal and recycled glass beads from Ghana. The result: an overwhelming technical and textile richness that combines the London tailoring tradition and Parisian haute couture with the craftsmanship of Ghana and Burkina Faso in an intercultural narrative. The new sneaker styles from his collaboration with Adidas’ Originals line added urban value to the runway.
The special project of Soulland, Silas Oda Adler’s Copenhagen brand that has always been attentive to sustainability, has brought international contemporaneity to Florence, consolidating an all-green style that looks to the future. The legendary Belgian designer Ann Demeulemeester is also back as guest of honor at Pitti Uomo, with a retrospective montage in the monumental Stazione Leopolda and emblematic pieces of her collections until 2022 , after which she left the direction of the brand.
Among the fashion trends at Pitti Immagine Uomo there are many reconfirmations and as many novelties
Generations traveling between classic and casual
Pitti Island, that is Happy Island; the mood of the collections is undoubtedly positive, a return to the roots, with brands aiming for eclectic, all-day and colorful fashion, produced with natural fabrics, suitable for both street and formalwear with a relaxed attitude. A formal but effortless elegance that modulates itself in a dialogue between sartorial heritage with increasingly evolving horizons towards sportswear. Modern reinterpretations where the formal is transversal to the generations, not detecting differences between young and mature consumers, as in the case of Brunello Cuccinelli. Or handmade items,emptied of structures but built with roots that sink into the heritage, and fabrics of the classical tradition such as pinstripes. A formal clothing that while dominating the scene is projected into a dimension “without pomp”.
Sustainability and lived aesthetics
On the subject of sustainability and style, the Paul & Shark jacket, made from a sail, and the “Upcycle” pieces from the Briglia 1949 collection, made with fabrics recovered from the company’s archives, stood out. A lived trend has emerged overwhelmingly that takes up the stylistic features of the past. An example of this is Robe di Kappa which, also taking up the aesthetics of the old advertising campaigns, has re-proposed models from the 70s and 80s, adapted and modernized. Roy Rogers, on the other hand, to celebrate his seventy years has recovered and re-edited the outfits, almost total denim from his own historical archive of the 70s.
Saharan jackets and overshirts are the symbolic garments of the fashion trends at Pitti
Atmospheres of a modernly classic and sporty gentleman, welcome garments in natural fabrics and tones, where the Saharan is the master; together with the double-breasted linen, trench coat and parka in organic cotton. Timeless models, emphasized by details such as XL pockets, drawstring, sophisticated melange and reworked collars; to be worn with bermuda shorts and trousers in eco-fiber with double pleats. Even the overshirt has now become a fundamental garment to replace the jacket in an informal way.
On the feet? Absolute comfort
Soft leather loafers, embellished with deconstructed workmanship and hyperflexible soles. Or Derby in waterproof brushed leather and running-inspired sneakers in soft leather. Green George has proposed a line of hyperlight suede moccasins with high flexibility, with internal memory foam insole.
Shirts: patterns and colors
The comeback of camouflage with army-inspired shirts continues to be in trend, as opposed to the carefree and joyful style of the Hawaiian spirit. But also hyper-colored linen shirts and lots and lots of green in all its forms. With Impulso, a reminiscence of the 90s is overwhelmingly confirmed: tie-dye in bright colors and sporty models.
The ironic white ribbed sock with its vintage spirit but strictly in organic cotton with writings that praise positive thinking is cleared. After a couple of seasons always on the crest of the wave, the varsity jacket is reconfirmed.
The most important salon dedicated to men’s fashion starts from Florence with returns in style for a journey in menswear between fashion and extravagance.